Categories
in slovenia

‘‘For me, Jure is on another planet. He can die on the bike and keep going.’’

the words are by hans mauritz, the co-organizer of le tour direct, on a fascinating 2006 article on the nytimes. he’s talking about jure robic, a slovenian super endurance athlete, who has a peculiar approach to the sport. he’s not physically stronger than other contestants, but he has the ability to push himself beyond the point of mental breakdown.

‘‘During race, I am going crazy, definitely,’’ he says, smiling in bemused despair. ‘‘I cannot explain why is that, but it is true.’’

The craziness is methodical, however, and Robic and his crew know its pattern by heart. Around Day 2 of a typical weeklong race, his speech goes staccato. By Day 3, he is belligerent and sometimes paranoid. His short-term memory vanishes, and he weeps uncontrollably. The last days are marked by hallucinations: bears, wolves and aliens prowl the roadside; asphalt cracks rearrange themselves into coded messages. Occasionally, Robic leaps from his bike to square off with shadowy figures that turn out to be mailboxes. In a 2004 race, he turned to see himself pursued by a howling band of black-bearded men on horseback.

‘‘Mujahedeen, shooting at me,’’ he explains. ‘‘So I ride faster.’’


they say he wins for the most fundamental of reasons: refusing to stop. long article, but definitely worth a read.

image by camera obscura.

Categories
in slovenia

i can haz a pony!

Relics of old Yugoslavia, Rog bikes are still all over the place in LJ (local slang for the Slovenian capital). You can hear varying degrees of metallic rattling emanating from these hunks of stainless steel, and of course the unmistakable trill of their antique – and more or less obligatory – bells. The point is, there are actually still loads of the older models trundling around Ljubljana’s cobbled back-streets and major thoroughfares, which, 18 years and counting since the factory closed, only confirms the communist engineering ethic: ‘build it like a tank’ – build it to last.

Perhaps Rog’s most cherished model, the Pony, with its dinky frame and comically undersized wheels, is definitely the cutest. You see everyone, from petite female students to lanky businessmen in three-piece suits to centenarian grandmothers, perched on their springy seats. You see these prancing Ponies in every colour, sometimes having been painted over numerous times.

from Ljubljana in your pocket guide.



ever since a friend told us about pony’s, i’ve been seeing them everywhere i look, obsessing about these cute little bikes. we searched bolha.com for days, until we found a couple of them in mint condition, and relatively cheap. (why are bicycles so ridiculously overpriced these days?)
anyway, it was practically love at first sight! mine is a more recent rog model, slightly bigger than the more typical ponys, but just as charming. i plan to put a lot of mileage in it :)

now we only need a couple of locks and a basket, and off we go!


Categories
in slovenia

škofja loka

škofja loka, one of the oldest settlements in slovenia, has a sad story. so sad in fact that after reading this passage from the lonely planet, we wondered how much of the town would still be there:

In the Middle Ages Škofja Loka developed as a trade centre along the Munich-Klagenfurt-Triste route, doing particularly well in iron, linen and furs. A circular wall with five gates protected by guard towers was built around the town in 1318 to ensure that this success continued.
But it was all for naught. An army of the counts of Celje breached the wall and burned the town to the ground in 1457; two decades later the Turks attacked. Then natural disaster struck: an earthquake in 1511 badly damaged the town, and several great fires at the end of the 17th center reduced most of Skofja Loka’s finest buildings to ashes.

on a cold saturday, škofja loka greeted us with lovely details in every corner, 16-17th century frescos on the houses façades and a castle that overlooks the town on top of a hill. and hot chocolate in a cozy café. :)







Categories
in slovenia

kurenti

we left home saturday last week for going to the market and stumbled on the local carnival event! we were a bit unprepared, but managed to take some photos with the holga. there were people partying in boats on the river, lots of shops selling krofi (like bolas de berlim but filled with chocolate!) and even a parade, with tons of kids dressed up in themes and my favourite part, the kurenti:

Kurenti or Koranti (singular: Kurent or Korant) are figures dressed in sheep skin who go about the town wearing masks, a long red tongue, cow bells, and on the head multi-colored ribbons. The Kurenti from Ptuj and the adjoining villages also wear feathers, while those from the Haloze and Lancova vas wear horns. Organized in groups, Kurents go through town, from house to house, making noise with their bells and wooden sticks, to symbolically scare off evil spirits and the winter. (more on wikipedia)



they’re very loud, jumping around and ringing their heavy cow bells, yet friendly, stopping by to talk to curious kids. it was a real treat to watch, our timing was quite perfect :)


Categories
foooood in slovenia

trta

perhaps because of its closeness to italy, ljubljana has quite a number of pizzerias. most of these have a wooden oven in a corner, and the pizzas are done in front of you. i’m not a pizza specialist, but i think they’re quite good!

trta is a cozy little place by the river, in the south side of the city. they have a nice service and biiiig pizzas with good ingredient combinations. we tried the desserts (tiramisu and pears in wine) and they got thumbs up as well! i really like this place, the decoration makes it feel quite homey and it never seems crowded. also, bonus points for having cesária évora playing on the background :)
naturally, there are pictures:
chez trta
white/green pizza
my pizza!
tiramisupears in wine
and what was left of it


eheh, i couldn’t resist it! :)